Where did Christmas Eve dishes on Polish tables come from?
Why do we drink borscht and eat carp? Where did compote and poppy seed delicacies come from? Today we are going to explore traditions connected with Christmas Eve dishes. We invite you to read on.
We have only been celebrating Christmas Eve since the 18th century, so it is a relatively young custom in our tradition. All Christmas Eve dishes have their own symbolism, which has obviously evolved over time. However, each of them also has its origin and tradition, and today we will try to go back in time and find out how borscht, carp and other dishes originated on the Polish table.
Christmas borscht on Polish tables
Borscht as a dish was already known on Polish soil several hundred years ago, although it is worth mentioning that initially it did not resemble the soup we know from our homes. It was made from fermented plant called borscht, and was often thickened with groats and meat.
One of the first mentions of red beetroot borscht can be found in Mikołaj Rej’s 1568 book ‘Żywo człowieka poczciwego’. It was in the 16th century that Polish cuisine underwent one of its most important revolutions, and more sophisticated vegetable dishes began to appear on Polish tables.
In the 17th century, fermentation of the aforementioned borscht was abandoned and rye bran began to be used for producing the acid. This white borscht was later the subject of many culinary experiments and was prepared with fish or thickened with egg yolks, among other things. However, for one of the main protagonists of our text, red borscht, it was not until the next century that a breakthrough was made.
At that time, beets became the basis of the sour soup, and borscht even appeared on the menu of Thursday dinners organised by Stanisław August Poniatowski. Even then it was served with ravioli, but it still didn’t take the lead on the Christmas Eve table – almond soup was definitely more popular (I wonder how it tasted? :)).
Beetroot borscht as a Christmas tradition was mentioned in 1832 by our national bard, Juliusz Słowacki. We can therefore assume that it was in the 19th century that the tradition of serving borscht on Christmas Eve was born. But, well, are the Silesians with us? Apparently beetroot has not won your heart and borscht has never been the king of the Christmas Eve table – be sure to let us know in the comments what kind of soup is served at your place!
At my house, for example, borscht wasn’t popular with everyone, either, so Mum would often prepare an alternative in the form of mushroom soup. If you are interested in the history of borscht and want to read more about it, I encourage you to read Joanna Banaś’s excellent article: https://wyborcza.pl/alehistoria/barszcz-panaceum-prawie-na-wszystko-dzieje-ulubionej-zupy.
Carp for Christmas Eve
Carp, like borscht, has been known on Polish tables for centuries, but its way to the Christmas Eve table was equally unusual. Even today, many people do not particularly appreciate its muddy aroma, preferring tastier alternatives, such as salmon. The fish is also not the healthiest one, hence the question – how did the not very tasty and not very healthy carp conquer the hearts of Poles?
Carp was said to have been bred in Poland as early as the 12th century and, according to some historians, for centuries it was a luxury commodity that the medieval poor could not afford. Later, before the Second World War, the tide turned and the fish lost its prestige at the expense of more noble species, such as pike and zander, as well as fish that could be caught on your own, such as roach and bream, which were supposed to land on the Christmas table.
The tradition cultivated to this day is the responsibility of none other than… Hilary Minc, Stalin’s Minister of Industry. Immediately after the end of World War II, in 1948, he was to propose the slogan ‘carp on every Polish Christmas Eve table’, at the same time initiating the establishment of State Fishery Farms. This is how the carp tradition began and continues to this day.
As carp is not one of the most nutritious and valuable fish, and its farming is not the most humane, it is worth paying attention to its origin. A good choice is to buy it in smaller shops, eco-shops or market stalls. You can read about the details of carp farming here: https://dziecisawazne.pl/krotka-historia-wigilijnego-karpia/.
Dried compote – an object of worship and hatred
One thing is for sure – this Christmas Eve dish is impossible to pass by indifferently. Mainly because of its very intense aroma, which wafts through the house long after the compote has been boiled. Its composition is a very individual matter and probably each housewife throws into it different ingredients, but basically it should consist of dried plums, pears, apples, apricots, figs and sultanas.
Aromatic dried compote quenches thirst well, and is rich in fibre, vitamins and minerals – quite an important support for our digestive systems during Christmas. Compote, as such, is supposed to have been consumed as early as the time of the Byzantine Empire, that is, several hundred years ago. But where and why did it appear in Poland, and how did it become one of the traditional Christmas Eve dishes? There is a theory:
It is worth adding that the recipes for the health-promoting Christmas compote come from Lemkos’ traditions. According to folk beliefs, the products of which we prepare this Christmas compote have magical powers: apples guarantee good health, peace and love, pears are responsible for longevity, and plums… ward off evil forces.
Dr Katarzyna Kasperkiewicz from the Faculty of Natural Sciences of the University of Silesia in Katowice.
As you can see, the tradition of eating compote in Poland dates back to pagan times. Does dried fruit compote belong to the traditional Christmas Eve dishes at your home? Do you like its taste and aroma? Do you add any interesting ingredients that I haven’t mentioned here? Be sure to share it with us in the comments!
Kutia, makiełki or poppy seed?
What is the difference between kutia, makiełki and makówki? Where do they come from and why do they appear on our Christmas Eve tables?
Kutia originates from the borderlands, so it is well known especially in our eastern neighbours – Lithuania, Belarus, Ukraine and Russia. It is currently considered a Christian Christmas Eve symbol, but like dried fruit compote, it derives from pagan rituals. Historically, kutia was meant to accompany the celebration of grandparents (pagan All Souls’ Day) and funerals. It consists of wheat, poppy seeds, malt, honey and nuts.
| It is difficult to imagine this today… |
| But there was an interesting custom connected with kutia – the eldest participant of the supper would throw a treat at the ceiling. If it stuck to the ceiling, it heralded good luck to the household members. (I can already see the look on my Mum’s face if I proposed something similar this year :D). |
Makiełki and makówki (Polish poppy seed cake) are very similar dishes, only the former are popular in Wielkopolska, the Zagłębie region and near Łódź, while the latter are the domain of Silesians. The Wielkopolska version is based on light bread (rolls drenched in milk) to which poppy seeds, honey and nuts are added. Silesians, on the other hand, use buttered rolls, rusks or challah. In the Zagłębie region, pasta is often used instead of bread, which is why they are also known as poppy seed dumplings.
All these regional specialities have one thing in common – the poppy. As you can already guess, in the times of our ancestors poppies symbolised good fortune, fertility and prosperity, and thanks to their hallucinogenic properties they were also supposed to connect the living with the afterlife. In the past, Christmas Eve dinner was a supper for the dead, hence the numerous references to pagan customs, whether in the case of poppy seed delicacies or dried fruit compote.
Did you like this article? Would you like to read about other Polish Christmas Eve traditions? Be sure to let us know in the comments what dishes appear on your tables. Please also correct me, especially in the case of makiełek – perhaps it was popular only in my house 🙂
If you want to know the nutritional value of Christmas Eve dishes, use the Fitatu application. You can find them in our database. You can also add your own recipe and find out about its nutritional values. More information about Fitatu can be found at: https://www.fitatu.com